Sunday, October 5, 2014

Bangkok Neighbourhoods Guide:
Phra Nakhon พระนคร 1

Subdistricts and historic places: Banglamphu บางลำพ, Rattanakosin รัตนโกสินทร์, Phra Borom Maharatcha Wang พระบรมมหาราชวัง, Wang Burapha Phirom วังบูรพาภิรมย์, Wat Ratchabophit วัดราชบพิธ, Samran Rat สำราญราษฎร์, San Chaopho Suea ศาลเจ้าพ่อเสือ, Sao Chingcha เสาชิงช้า, Bowonniwet บวรนิเวศ, Talat Yot ตลาดยอด, Chana Songkhram ชนะสงคราม, Ban Phan Thom บ้านพานถม, Bang Khun Phrom บางขุนพรหม, Wat Sam Phraya วัดสามพระยา
See the nearest stations on Phra Nakhon Railways, Boat, Skytrain and Buses Google Map

Famous and hidden Markets in Phra Nakhon พระนคร

See the locations on Phra Nakhon Markets Google Map

Banglamphu Market: Clothing, household items and sweets in Phra Sumen Road, Tanao Street and Chakrabongse Street. Great food stalls, as you can read on mmm-yoso!!!. See also Wat Bowonniwet, it has a quiet Temple garden.

Picture © Juan Pablo

Picture © Juan Pablo

Find your way: From Chao Phraya River leave at Phra Athit Pier.
Open: From 10 am to 7 pm.


Thewet Flower Market ตลาดเทเวศร์: Potted plants, flowers and related items.
Find your way: Off the intersection of Samsen road and Krung Kasem road. From Chao Phraya river you leave at Tha Thewet pier.


A lot of orchids at Thewet flower market, picture by © mookE


Picture by © Bryan Ledgard


Thewet wet market, picture by © _perSona_


Picture by © nimboo



Good Morning Old Bangkok 6: Tha Prachan ท่าพระจันทร์ and Wang Lang Market ตลาดวังหลัง

See the locations on Bangkok Walking Tour: Tha Prachan and Wang Lang Google Map

Picture by iamkeang

The area around Tha Prachan ท่าพระจันทร์ ("Moon pier") comes alive around 4 pm, when students and workers starting to head home and visiting tourists form an eclectic mix of people with the street vendors and owners of decades-old businesses in the shops. Tha Prachan (see picture) is one of Bangkok’s most historical piers. It’s also home to two of Thailand’s leading Universities, Thammasart (see campus map) and Silpakorn. "The food on offer at Tha Prachan is a real treat. Inside the pier’s small complex are a number of great local eateries offering all the favourites like papaya salad and green chicken curry. Outside are various street vendors selling tropical fruits, juices and other delicious snacks", notes Life in Bangkok blog. Have a look at the noodles eaten by Earn K.T. And BK Magazine covered eateries like New Yong Hua Pochana, Nai Dee, Charoen Chai, Ajisen Ramen, Tha Prachan, Roti Mataba Tha Prachan, N+Rich, Aew Tha Prachan and R-Roy. At R-Roy you get butter sugar crackers, for which the people are queuing reports Stranger in Bangkok. And their design is vintage, writes kanidinspired.com.

Picture by Momykaboon
R-Roy crispy bread, with vintage design

travel.cnn.com portrays owners of shops and stalls, between fashionable clothes and accessoires, bookshops and musicshops, fortune tellers and amulets. The area around the pier hosts an extensive Buddhist amulet market, which opens early in the morning and closes around dusk. Thais have been wearing Buddhist amulets for centuries. "This comes from a superstitious belief that an amulet can protect the wearer from evil spirits and bad luck. It's also thought that the various powers linked with an amulet can easily outlive the current owner", writes Youthapong Charoenpan.

Picture by -AX-
Amulet Market

Picture by -AX-

Picture by Nir Nussbaum

Picture by -AX-
Maharat Road


On the corner of Pra Chan and Na Phra That roads you will find Cafe Velo Dome คาเฟ่เวโลโดม. Here you can get a lot of information about Bangkok’s bicycle rentals, bike tours, and city routes for bikers.
Tha Prachan is also a historic site - a site of sadness. Pictures by tuktadevil show, what is known as the 6 October 1976 Thammasat University Massacre เหตุการณ์ 6 ตุลา, when right-wing paramilitary groups killed 46 students and wounded 167 students (the official numbers, probably many more), during a military coup. Thammasat University holds an annual event with eyewitness accounts and historical records. In 1996 a memorial has been built on the campus.

Tha Prachan is just a short walk from Tha Chang Pier, which can easily be reached by a Chao Phraya Express Boat. From Tha Prachan a ferry crosses Chao Phraya River to Tha Wang Lang Pier. And here, beneath Siriraj Hospital, you enter a secondhand shopping paradise: Wang Lang market ตลาดวังหลัง, little sois cramped with shops and stalls. Young Bangkokians know it for good quality and cheap prices for garments, shoes, accessoires as well as delicious foods, loved by locals and students and described by BK. See also this video by ToyJoyKandygirl. The market part with the clothing stalls is called Talad Naew Naew. Nira Chan has nice pictures and one advice: Don't go between 1130 am and 1pm, because the market then is full of hungry students and nurses from the hospital.

Picture by gnarlykitty
Wang Lang shopping paradise

Picture by looktana

Picture by auang

Picture by auang



Good morning Old Bangkok 3: Artsy Phra Athit Road

See the locations on Old Bangkok Buildings Google Map

Picture marhas
Where Phra Athit Road turns into Phra Sumen Road


Not looking for the neon lights, the souvenir stalls and the crowd of backpackers in Khao San Road, but for heritage? Then Thanon Phra Athit ถนนพระอาทิตย์, located along Chao Phraya River, may be your road for a stroll and for your dinner or for a drink, because it's known for its bars and artsy restaurants and also for some shops. It's not far away. First you may arrive at Santichan Prakan Park with Phra Sumen Fort (from 1783), one of the two remaining of fourteen forts, that used to guard the ancient city. From the park a riverside walk leads to Pra Pinklao bridge and to some restaurants with riverview. Phra Athit road also shows you the architecture of old Bangkok with shophouses and palaces:


Picture §Leng§
Phra Sumen Fort


Bann Chao Phraya บ้านเจ้าพระยา (Wang Grom Muen Sathit Damrong Sawat): Next to Sumeru Fortress on Chao Phraya River. Originally the palace of Prince Sathit Thamroungsawat, son of King Rama II. Later it was Prince Khamrob's palace. The two-storey brick building is supposed to have been built between 1868 and 1910. Architectural characteristics are "the delicate perforated wooden porch, the window facades overlaid with half-circle glass, the curved upper balcony", notes Donruetai Kovathanakul in a research project. See picture by flatkrab


Bann Phra Arthit บ้านพระอาทิตย์: Wang Thanon Phra Arthit Tee Nuang. House Number 102/1 Phra Athit Road. Finance Minister Phraya Vorapomgpipat (Wang Chao Woraphong Pipat วังเจ้าพระยาวรพงศ์พิพัฒน์) constructed the building in 1926. From 1962 to 1989 the Goethe Institut rented this house. Now it is the office of Manager Media Group. And it houses the restaurant Coffee&More บ้านพระอาทิตย์. See gallery. See pictures on soidb.com. See also picture on bloggang.com and here

Picture tourrattanakosin


Buddhist Association of Thailand:

Picture marhas


Bann Maliwan: Also called Maliwan Palace and Wang Grom Phra Nares Worarit. It was originally the palace of Prince Worarit, son of King Rama IV. During Woröd War II it was command-post for Seri-Thai, the Free Thai Mouvement. It is also known as Tha Chang Mansion. Today its the office of the UN Food and Agriculture Organization. It was built by the Italian architect Ercole Manfredi.

Picture marhas


Wang Grom Phra Sawatdiwatwisit: This building was first the residence of a consort of King Rama IV. Today its the Unicef-Buiding (United Nations Children's Fund).


Prince Adisaranuwongse Sukhasvati's Palace:

Picture marhas

Picture marhas

Picture Ian Fuller


Restaurants on Phra Athit Road
Read more in the Banglamphoo section of Mouthwatering Food in Bangkok



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Mouthwatering Food in Phra Nakhon พระนคร

See the locations on Phra Nakhon พระนคร Restaurants Google Map

Bakery and Café
Nom Joe 441 Tanao Road. Hot milk, toast, also noodles, rice dishes and salads. Aziacity Review. And read, what Austin Bush writes.

Indian
Royal India 392/1 Chakrapet Road. ThailandTatler writes: "A handful of tables, a TV set and not much else keeps the focus on food, which thankfully makes up for the lack in ambience." ThailandTatler Review


Chinese-Thai
Jae Wa-Jae Yong Hainanese Noodles ขนมจีนไหหลำ เจ้วา-เจ้หย่ง Luk Luang Soi 8 ซอยลูกหลวง. "Firm noodles, tender chunks of braised beef, pickled cabbage, braised bamboo shoots all drenched in a thick sauce loaded with peanuts and white sesame", notes Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul. Read BKMagazine Review. And read the story of the Hainanese people, who came to Thailand, amd what kind of kitchen they brought in Bangkok Post

Picture ให้ทิปเจ้าของ


Thai
Aquatini: 45/1-2 Phra Athit Road. Restaurant at the Chao Phraya River, in front of Navalai Resort. Thai and European cuisine. "Pocket-friendly prices", says BKmagazine.com

Chote Chitr 146 Phraeng Phuton, Tanao Road. The "New York Times" writes: "The restaurant has been around some 90 years, prides itself on cooking recipes developed by ancient Thai royal courts, and its wall menu lists hundreds of dishes. These often rely on traditional ingredients tough to find today, and Chote Chitr’s cooks say little about how they uncover them." NYT Review

Chote Chitr, picture by OGGtours.


Khinlom Chomsaphan. 11/6, Soi 3 Samsen Road. On the banks pf Chao Phraya River. "Best value on the river", means the blogger of International Herald Tribune. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com. See also video on youtube.com. Pictures by Christopher.

Picture marhas

Picture Navalai


Hemlock: 56 Pra Athit Road. Run by a group of former students. Good reviews on
travelchannel.com and tripadvisor.com. The dining area serves also a as gallery with rotating work by local artists, notes BK Magazine

Picture isriya


Krua Noppharat: 130-132 Phra Athit Road. "The authentic Isan menu includes regional specialties like fried snakehead fish with spicy sauce, banana-flower salad, raw shrimp, fried morning glory, and Isan sausage", notes Fodor's. The first restaurant on this road, some decades old, adds Amazing Thailand Gourmet

Picture scottpartee
Marinated pork in Krua Noppharat


Old Phra Athit Pier 23 Phra Athit Road. Dining on a wooden deck. Read review by BKMagazine Review Picture nuttaporn



Poonsin 460 Wisut Kasat Road. BK-Magazine writes: "Homestyle ped yang (roast duck) and ped palo (braised duck with Chinese herbs) make up for the otherwise monotonous setting by taking your mouth on an unforgettable journey." BKMagazine Review


Raan Jay Fai 327 Maha Chai Road. Of the best noodle dishes. The "New York Times" writes: "Jay Fai noodles stir-fried with spicy Thai basil is a dish also called drunken noodles. Some Thais believe the dish got its name because street cooks serve it into the wee hours, when their clientele is the drunkest." NYT Review


Roti Mataba 136 Phra Athit Road. Thai Muslim kitchen from Southern Thailand, popular by backpackers. Roti is flat bread filled with your choice of meat or fish. BKMagazine Review And see, what this blogger writes: Primitive Culture

Picture Erin&Justin


Rub Aroon: Also: Rub Ar Roon. 310-312 Maharat Road. Coffee, milkshakes, juices, sandwiches and curries in an old Chinese shophouse.

Picture marhas1 See another picture.


Samsensoisam สามเสนซอย 3: 10 Samsen Soi 3. Phone 02 6288362With great riverview towards Rama IIX Bridge. With DJ and live band. The house specialty is Goong SamSenSoiSam (fried prawns in spicy red sauce). "If you want to get dinner for two and impress your date with good food and an intimate riverside atmosphere, Samsensoisam is the place to go", comments BK Magazine.


Teddy the Bake: Samsen Soi 5. Teddy bears everywhere in the restaurant. Thai food and bakery for dessert. See pictures on bloggang.com. Read the review by apexjojo.wordpress.com


The Deck เดอะ เดค At Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road. Read the review of International Herald Tribune. See more pictures by fwdder.com


Ton Pho Riverside Openair-Restaurant. Read Fodors's review.


International
Mr Pas: 140 Phra Athit Road. Only a few tables. Fusion kitchen, some dished showed by Hungry in Bangkok. "The moment you walk in your hunger will already be stimulated by the smell of duck or seafood being pan-seared in butter and spices", writes Sittipon Chanarat on gurubangkok.com.
See also this picture from inside

Picture Rabbit Moon


Read also Phra Athit Guide by bk.asia-city.com



Discover the second part:
Bangkok Neighbourhoods Guide: Phra Nakhon พระนคร 2


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