Sunday, May 27, 2012

Mouthwatering food in Bangkok

See the locations on Bangkok Restaurants Google Map and on kmz-file for Google Earth.


Here I'm collecting reviews of restaurants and food stalls, organized by districts of Bangkok – so you will find your eating choice near the place, where you stay or go to visit. Your comments will be helpful to keep this section of this blog fresh. All the adresses you can also find by typing the street name and house number here: Map Yellow.co.th



Bang Kho Laem บางคอแหลม
Subdistricts: Bang Khlo บางโคล่, Wat Phraya Kri วัดพระยาไกร


Seafod
Baan Klang Nam: 288 Rama III Soi 14. Seafood-restaurant in a rustic wooden house at Chao Phraya River near Montien Riverside Hotel. "This little hidden gem is nothing fancy, but it offers honest, authentic, tasty food at a reasonable price", notes seafarers62 on tripadvisor.com, where you find very good reviews. Also wheretoeat-bangkok.com recommends it very much. Review with pictures on bodyholic66.blogspot.com

Picture Not Quite a Photographr

Picture Not Quite a Photographr The Curry Crab is excellent



Bangkok Noi บางกอกน้อย
Subdistricts: Siri Rat ศิริราช, Ban Chang Lo บ้านช่างหล่อ, Bang Khun Non บางขุนนนท์, Bang Khun Si บางขุนศรี, Arun Ammarin อรุณอมรินทร์


Thai
Supatra River House The two-story traditional Thai house on the banks of the Chao Phraya River near on the Temple of the dawn is a little piece of Thai history. It was formerly the home of Khunying Supatra Singholaga , who in addition to being a successful business lady was a leading advocate of women' s rights in Thai society.Supatra Riverhouse and Thailand Thatler Review. Read a blog by International Herald Tribune. You learn, that Supatra River House has a boat, which takes you up from anywhere along the river.

Picture Supatra River House



Bangna บางนา

Chinese
Somboon Seafood 32/25 Soi Udom Suk 60, Sukhumvit 103 Road. Frommer's writes: "This one's for those who would sacrifice atmosphere for excellent food." BK Magazine Review See video of Sombon Seafood Ratchada branch:





Bang Phlat บางพลัด
Subdistricts: Bang O บางอ้อ, Bang Bamru บางบำหรุ, Bang Yi Khan บางยี่ขัน


Thai

Bang Or Talay Phao: 261/61 ซอย จรัญสนิทวงศ์ 89. This seafood eatery is "well worth the cross-town journey", wrote Bangkok Post. The menu comes only in Thai: stir-fried, deep-fried, soups, spicy salads, fish, prawn, crab and shellfish. "Blue crab is a thing you shouldn't miss here", wrote Vanniya Sriangura, she recommends the steamed version to savour the genuine sweet taste of the crab.



Bangrak บางรัก
Subdistricts: Maha Phruettharam มหาพฤฒาราม, Silom สีลม, Suriyawong สุริยวงศ์, Si Phraya สี่พระยา


Chinese
Jok Prince โจ๊กปรินซ์: Between 1391 and 1393 Charoen Krung Road, in a little alley, that used to be the entrance to Prince Theater, a cinema. "The best rice congee with all the trimmings in this area for over 50 years", says Leela Punyaratabandhu on cnngo.com.



Rice-congee

Somboon Seafood 169/7-11 Surawong Road. Frommer's writes: "This one's for those who would sacrifice atmosphere for excellent food." BK Magazine Review

The China House: Charoen Krung Soi 38. Cantonese kitchen in a Fabergé-delicate heritage house, redone in sumptuous 1930s Shanghai Art Deco style with red leather, wood screens, chinese Lanterns and booths for intimate or secret dinners. Owned by the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Specialities are "a tasty sautéed chicken with Yang Jiang preserved black beans in a claypot, and a delicious hot and sour soup filled with fresh herbs and sweet lobster meat, all tastefully presented on white tableware decorated with figures depicted in black silhouette", notes thefastguide.com.

China House in Shanghai Art Deco style



French
Le Normandie The Oriental Hotel, 48 New Road. On the sixth and top floor of the hotel, with panoramic view of Chao Phraya River and Thonburi. The HSBC-Dining Guide writes: "Impeccable service, scrumptious food, glamorous ambiance—there’s nothing average at this hi-end restaurant. If you don’t mind leaving with an empty wallet, this is the place to go for A-list French cuisine." Sam Worthington Review


Italian
Six Degrees 42 Convent Road. Acid jazz and laid-back new age music is played fairly loudly and the trendy wood and metal chairs are not all-conducive to a relaxing meal, says ThailandTatlers Review. Download for Google Map/Google Earth.


Lao
Café de Laos: 16, Soi Silom 19, Silom Road. In a colonial teak house. Lao traditional as well as Isaan dishes. Mixed reviews on tripadvisor.com. Good review by Thailand Tatler. See photoset by ricard67


Mediterranean
Sirocco 1055 Silom Road. On top of the city's second tallest building, the State Tower Building. Mediterranean kitchen. Sam Worthington Review

Picture Sirocco


Muslim
Muslim Restaurant: 1354-56 Charoen Krung Road. +66 (0)2 234 1876. "Founded by Hajee Maidin Pakayawong, a well-known Bang Rak market goat butcher, as the culinary outlet for his fresh goat meat, this 70-year-old eatery still serves up exactly the same menu it did back in World War II era", describes cnngo.com. Goat biryani is one of the bestloved dishes here. It's run by daughter Manee Pakayawong today, as shesimmers.com knows. Open daily, 6 am till 6 pm. "Worth a visit, both for the fun old-world atmosphere and the good eats", comments austinbushphotography.com. "Authentic, clean, and delicious", recommends Having "Me" Time. See video by linglingtube.

Islamic Restaurant: 196 Charoenkrung Soi 36 (opposite the French Embassy). Phone +66 (0) 2 234 7911. Open 11am to 10pm Monday to Saturday, 6pm to 10pm Sunday. Like homecooked Thai-Indian food. "The desserts are out of this world because Jongruk Vanich-Angkul, the owner herself, makes fresh yoghurt daily", notes The Nation.

Green curry with Roti.

Naaz ร้านอาหาร: 24/9 Soi Phutta Osot (Charoen Krung Soi 45). Some of the best chicken biryani (khao mok kai) in Bangkok according to Lonely Planet. This is confermedf by austinbushphotography.com, who tried it with goat. Good review also on Tongue Thai-ed.


Thai
Boonsap Thai Desserts บุญทรัพย์: 1478 Charoen Krung Road. "Their sweet sticky rice topped with impossibly smooth and creamy steamed egg custard (sangkhaya) is simply extraordinary", comments Leela Punyaratabandhu. Motormouth from Impoh has pictures of the desserts.

Charoensang Silom 22 Charoen Krung Soi 49. Braised pork knuckles. BK Magazine Review

Harmonique 22 Charoen Krung Soi 34 (between Oriental and Sheraton Hotel). The restaurant opens to a courtyard with tables amongst plants and greenery. The interior rooms are part of a charming century old townhouse, with beautiful woodwork and Chinese antiques and artwork. Dininginthailand Review

Picture by Starbuck Powersurge

Naj Cuisine นาจเอ๊กเคว็สสิท ไทยคุยซีน: 42 Convent Road (opposite BNH Hospital). The old Thai house, filled with Thai ceramics, once belonged to an aristocratic family during the reign of Rama V. Elegant and charming, according to ThailandTatlers Review, but also expensive. But "in a solid place like Naj, the attention to detail, the high standards of service, the lovely atmosphere and the top quality ingredients make it well worth the extra expense", notes bk.asia-city.com. Very good reviews on tripadvisor.com. Open daily for lunch from 11.30 am till 2.30 pm and dinner from 5.30 pm till 11.30 pm.


Prachak ประจักษ์เป็ดย่าง: 1415 Charoen Krung Road, diagonally across from Robinson Department store. The fourth generation has been serving noodles in a rich, aromatic soup since 1897. And also the roasted duck is well known and you have to be early for that befor it runs out. "The noodles are incredible", comments tastythailand.com. From 7.30 am to 20.30 pm daily.



Queen of Curry: 49 Charoen Krung Soi 50. +66 2 234-4321. A small family owned restaurant with six tables. Many tourists come here, because it is mentioned in more and more guides. "It is good, but not exceptionally so", comments Without Strings Tied.

Thip Hoi Thot Phu-khao Fai: 3 Soi Charoen Krung 50. Mussel- and oysterpancakes. "Served atop a bed of bean sprouts wilted to tender-crisp and accompanied by sweet and sour chili sauce, the flat cakes of battered, pan-fried fresh mussels, attain a hard-to-achieve ratio of gooey to crispy perfection", writes Leela Punyaratabandhu.

Tongue Thai Restaurant: 18-20 Soi Charoen Krung 38. Curries and spicy salads are awaiting you in a 100-year-old converted shophouse. The reviews on tripadvisor.com are a bit mixed, some very good, some disappointed. See pictures by wcher. Open 11am-10.30pm daily.




Din Daeng ดินแดง

Chinese
Somboon Seafood 167/9-12 Ratchada Phisek Road, Ratchada Huay Kwang Cross. Frommer's writes: "This one's for those who would sacrifice atmosphere for excellent food." BK Magazine Review

Talad Loong Perm 89 Wiphawadi Rangsit Road. The "New York Times" writes about these covered stalls in a shopping area: "Vendors stir crimson, orange and yellow curries floating with wisps of coconut milk." NYT Review


Vegetarian
Anotai 976/17 Soi Rim Klong Sam Sen, Rama 9 Road (close to Rama 9 Hospital). Bangkok Best Tables writes: "This intimate eatery is heaven on earth for the health-conscious, thanks to organic vegetarian dishes that are packed with flavor." BKMagazine Review and dininginthailand.com



Dusit ดุสิต
Subdistricts: Wachiraphayaban วชิรพยาบาล, Suan Chittralada สวนจิตรลดา, Si Yaek Maha Nak สี่แยกมหานาค, Thanon Nakhon Chai Si ถนนนครไชยศรี


Thai
Krua Apsorn Samsen Soi 9, Samsen Road. Known for crab-meat omelet and curry. Oh-Sirin Review. And see pictures.

Picture Charles Haynes
Papaya Salad at Krua Apsorm




Khlong San คลองสาน
Subdistricts: Somdet Chao Phraya สมเด็จเจ้าพระยา, Bang Lamphu Lang บางลำภูล่าง, Khlong Ton Sai คลองต้นไทร


Thai
Sala Rim Naam Charoen-Nakorn Road. At Chao Phraya River. DininginThailand Review



Pathumwan ปทุมวัน
Subdistricts: Rong Mueang รองเมือง, Wang Mai วังใหม่, Lumphini ลุมพินี

Chinese
Somboon Seafood 895/6-21 Chula 8 Banthad Thong Road. Frommer's writes: "This one's for those who would sacrifice atmosphere for excellent food." BK Magazine Review Chinese-Thai

Nguan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan and Soi Sarasin, opposite to Lumpini Park. The "Nerw York Times" writes: "At this typical Chinese-Thai joint, waitresses bring out fresh local sea bass, plucked from tanks outside and steamed with chilies, chopped raw garlic and a broth of lime juice and rinds of kaffir lime." NYT Review

Italian
Calderazzo 59 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit road. Thailand Tatler writes: "Calderazzo offers a wide selection of Italian cuisine and, now established for over three years, ranks among Bangkok’s finest." Thailand Tatlers Review

Gianni Ristorante 34/1 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Road. Thailands Best Restaurants Review and Sam Worthington Review

Air Plane It is a simple Italian eatery with plain but tasty fare. Thailand Tatlers Review


Thai
Ae Seafood BK-Magazine writes: "Ae Seafood scores zero for ambiance, but if you are looking for fresh seafood at bargain-basement prices, this place does the trick." BKMagazine Review

Thai/Indian
Whole Earth 93/3 Soi Lang Suan. Launched in 1978, The Whole Earth was the first fine vegetarian restaurant in Bangkok. Also non vegetarian Thai and Indian dishes. Review Virtual Tourist


Vietnamese
Thang Long: 82/5 Soi Lang Suan. Critical reviews on tripadvisor.com. "Food is good, service has to be improved", adds Rya's Kitchen.



Phra Nakhon พระนคร
Subdistricts and historic places: Banglamphu บางลำพ, Rattanakosin รัตนโกสินทร์, Phra Borom Maharatcha Wang พระบรมมหาราชวัง, Wang Burapha Phirom วังบูรพาภิรมย์, Wat Ratchabophit วัดราชบพิธ, Samran Rat สำราญราษฎร์, San Chaopho Suea ศาลเจ้าพ่อเสือ, Sao Chingcha เสาชิงช้า, Bowonniwet บวรนิเวศ, Talat Yot ตลาดยอด, Chana Songkhram ชนะสงคราม, Ban Phan Thom บ้านพานถม, Bang Khun Phrom บางขุนพรหม, Wat Sam Phraya วัดสามพระยา


Bakery and Café
Nom Joe 441 Tanao Road. Hot milk, toast, also noodles, rice dishes and salads. Aziacity Review. And read, what Austin Bush writes.

Indian
Royal India 392/1 Chakrapet Road. ThailandTatler writes: "A handful of tables, a TV set and not much else keeps the focus on food, which thankfully makes up for the lack in ambience." ThailandTatler Review


Chinese-Thai
Jae Wa-Jae Yong Hainanese Noodles ขนมจีนไหหลำ เจ้วา-เจ้หย่ง Luk Luang Soi 8 ซอยลูกหลวง. "Firm noodles, tender chunks of braised beef, pickled cabbage, braised bamboo shoots all drenched in a thick sauce loaded with peanuts and white sesame", notes Nuttaporn Srisirirungsimakul. Read BKMagazine Review. And read the story of the Hainanese people, who came to Thailand, amd what kind of kitchen they brought in Bangkok Post

Picture ให้ทิปเจ้าของ


Thai
Aquatini: 45/1-2 Phra Athit Road. Restaurant at the Chao Phraya River, in front of Navalai Resort. Thai and European cuisine. "Pocket-friendly prices", says BKmagazine.com

Chote Chitr 146 Phraeng Phuton, Tanao Road. The "New York Times" writes: "The restaurant has been around some 90 years, prides itself on cooking recipes developed by ancient Thai royal courts, and its wall menu lists hundreds of dishes. These often rely on traditional ingredients tough to find today, and Chote Chitr’s cooks say little about how they uncover them." NYT Review

Chote Chitr, picture by OGGtours.


Khinlom Chomsaphan. 11/6, Soi 3 Samsen Road. On the banks pf Chao Phraya River. "Best value on the river", means the blogger of International Herald Tribune. Good reviews on tripadvisor.com. See also video on youtube.com. Pictures by Christopher.

Picture marhas

Picture Navalai


Hemlock: 56 Pra Athit Road. Run by a group of former students. Good reviews on
travelchannel.com and tripadvisor.com. The dining area serves also a as gallery with rotating work by local artists, notes BK Magazine

Picture isriya


Krua Noppharat: 130-132 Phra Athit Road. "The authentic Isan menu includes regional specialties like fried snakehead fish with spicy sauce, banana-flower salad, raw shrimp, fried morning glory, and Isan sausage", notes Fodor's. The first restaurant on this road, some decades old, adds Amazing Thailand Gourmet

Picture scottpartee
Marinated pork in Krua Noppharat


Old Phra Athit Pier 23 Phra Athit Road. Dining on a wooden deck. Read review by BKMagazine Review Picture nuttaporn



Poonsin 460 Wisut Kasat Road. BK-Magazine writes: "Homestyle ped yang (roast duck) and ped palo (braised duck with Chinese herbs) make up for the otherwise monotonous setting by taking your mouth on an unforgettable journey." BKMagazine Review


Raan Jay Fai 327 Maha Chai Road. Of the best noodle dishes. The "New York Times" writes: "Jay Fai noodles stir-fried with spicy Thai basil is a dish also called drunken noodles. Some Thais believe the dish got its name because street cooks serve it into the wee hours, when their clientele is the drunkest." NYT Review


Roti Mataba 136 Phra Athit Road. Thai Muslim kitchen from Southern Thailand, popular by backpackers. Roti is flat bread filled with your choice of meat or fish. BKMagazine Review And see, what this blogger writes: Primitive Culture

Picture Erin&Justin


Rub Aroon: Also: Rub Ar Roon. 310-312 Maharat Road. Coffee, milkshakes, juices, sandwiches and curries in an old Chinese shophouse.

Picture marhas1 See another picture.


Samsensoisam สามเสนซอย 3: 10 Samsen Soi 3. Phone 02 6288362With great riverview towards Rama IIX Bridge. With DJ and live band. The house specialty is Goong SamSenSoiSam (fried prawns in spicy red sauce). "If you want to get dinner for two and impress your date with good food and an intimate riverside atmosphere, Samsensoisam is the place to go", comments BK Magazine.


Teddy the Bake: Samsen Soi 5. Teddy bears everywhere in the restaurant. Thai food and bakery for dessert. See pictures on bloggang.com. Read the review by apexjojo.wordpress.com


The Deck เดอะ เดค At Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road. Read the review of International Herald Tribune. See more pictures by fwdder.com


Ton Pho Riverside Openair-Restaurant. Read Fodors's review.


International
Mr Pas: 140 Phra Athit Road. Only a few tables. Fusion kitchen, some dished showed by Hungry in Bangkok. "The moment you walk in your hunger will already be stimulated by the smell of duck or seafood being pan-seared in butter and spices", writes Sittipon Chanarat on gurubangkok.com.
See also this picture from inside

Picture Rabbit Moon


Read also Phra Athit Guide by bk.asia-city.com



Pom Prap Sattru Phai ป้อมปราบศัตรูพ่าย
Subdistricts: Pom Prap ป้อมปราบ, Wat Thepsirin วัดเทพศิรินทร์, Khlong Mahanak คลองมหานาค, Ban Bat บ้านบาตร, Wat Sommanat วัดโสมนัส

Chinese
The Empress Mainly Cantonese dishes. Thailand Tatlers Review


Japanese
Chiw Boriphat Road. Kobe beef stew (B100) accompanied by a bowl of rice. BKMagazine Review


Thai
Sor Roong Roj 141-3 Nakhon Sawan Road. The 45-year-old shop’s specialty: kuay tiew ped palo (noodles with duck braised in Chinese spices). BKMagazine Review



Samphan Thawong สัมพันธวงศ์ (Chinatown)


Bakery and Café
Ie Sae On the corner of Pad Sai Road and Pha Dung Dao Rd. The oldest Café in this street. BK Magazine Review and read Austin Bush


Tea:
Double Dogs Tea Room: 406, Yaowarat, Sampanthawong. Selections of tea from various regions/countries and home made sweets. "For 160 baht you get a Da Hong Pao tea, a well known blue tea from Fujian in China, with one Chinese baked tea cake from a selection of six", describes bangkok.com.


Thai
Iam Pochana 215/2-3 Maitri Chit Road. Iam Pochana is famous for its kao lao nuea mor fai (beef hot pot). BKMagazine Review

Si Morakot 80-82 Soi Sukhon 2. Roast pork with half-boiled egg and sauce. BK Magazine Review


Song Kee 84-88 Soi Sukon, Tri Mit Road. BK-Magazine writes: "Tender pork and liver satay (B5 each) come escorted by a rich coconut sauce at this 65-year-old shop." BKMagazine Review



Sathorn สาทร
Subdistricts: Thung Wat Don ทุ่งวัดดอน, Yan Nawa ยานนาวา, Thung Maha Mek ทุ่งมหาเมฆ

Italian
L'ulivo: Narathivat Soi 7. Chef Danilo Aiassa comes from Piemont in Italy and used to be the Italian chef at Four Seasons in Bangkok. The restaurant in a sixty year old restored house serves dishes from all regions of Italy.

Mediterranean
Cy'an Lobby/F, The Metropolitan Bangkok, 27 Sathorn Tai Road. Seafood. ThailandTatlers Review


Thai
Issaya Siamese Club: 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Road. Restaurant and club in an 90-years-old house with wooden verandah and an old staircase. Dining room and large outdoor terrace. In the garden guests can see aromatic Thai herbs grown year-round. Chef Pongtawat “Ian” Chalermkittichai is a pioneer in farm-to-table dining in Thailand. The Siamese Club is a lounge-bar throughout the upper floors of the house, designed by Hans Bogetoft Christensen. Excellent reviews on tripadvisor.com. "An outstanding restaurant" according to Bangkok Magazine. "Can’t-miss dishes include spiced baby-back ribs, jasmine flower flan and wok-sauteed rice with Chiang Mai mushrooms and mixed grains served sizzling in a hot bowl", notes travelandleisureasia.com. See pictures on http://15000kms.wordpress.com. And: Pongtawat “Ian” Chalermkittichai has published the Issaya Siamese Club: Cookbook right now.

Picture by Raj Taneja

Picture by Issaya Siamese Club


Je Ngor's Seafood Bangkok Ins.-YWCA Bldg, 11th Flr, South Sathorn Road. In the past 6 years Je Ngor's Seafood has grown from it's original location on Charoenkrung 39 to six branches in the Bangkok area. Dininginthailand Review


Bar
Vertigo 21/100 South Sathon Rd. 61 floor above the city on the roof of Banyan Tree Hotel, barbecued seafood. Read reviews on world's best's bars



Thonburi ธนบุรี
Subdistricts: Wat Kanlaya วัดกัลยาน์, Hiranruchi หิรัญรูจี, Bang Yi Rue บางยี่เรือ, Bukkhalo บุคคโล, Talat Phlu ตลาดพลู, Dao Khanong ดาวคะนอง, Samre สำเหร่

Chinese-Thai
Charoen Pochana 79/1 Soi Wat Bang Sakae Nok, Thoet Thai Road, Thon Buri. Make reservation and ask them to fax their map. BKMagazine writes: "A dingy room serving careful, almost perfectly turned-out Chinese dishes with a hint of Thai flair." BK Magazine Review


Watthana วัฒนา
Subdistricts: Khlong Toei Nuea คลองเตยเหนือ, Khlong Tan Nuea คลองตันเหนือ, Phra Khanong Nuea พระโขนงเหนือ


American
Bourbon St. Restaurant 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Washington Square. Louisiana food - "a synthesis of the rich and spicy flavours of Cajun and Creole cooking", writes wheretoeat-bangkok.com. Owner Doug Harrison is from Louisiana and has published his own cookbook "It's hot".


Australian
Hog's Breath Cafe: Thong Lo 8, Sukhumvit Soi 55, second floor. "Finding the right steak at the right price can be troublesome in Bangkok ... but not any more", writes Bangkok Post. Hog's Breath Cafe is a steakhouse of an Australian chain with reasonable prices.


Chinese-Thai
New Srifa 33 Sukhumvit Soi 33. BKMagazine writes: "The menu is as heavy as the bowls of boiled rice themselves. The gub can range from simple pickled lettuce (B60) and fried sweet sliced pork (B80) to the elaborate spicy steamed sea bass (B350). The portions are generous, too, so don’t over order. Their “must try” items include minced pork with black olives (B80), and if you want to order the house special, which is deep-fried crab dumpling (B150 for a small dish), order it right away as they make it from scratch." BK Magazine Review

55 Pochana Sukhumvit Soi 55. Well known for rice soup. The Nation writes: "Who would imagine an old, plainly decorated streetside restaurant could attract hundreds of customers everyday for the past almost two decades? Perhaps 55 Pochana’s classic khao tom shop hours are part of the answer, catering to the late night needs of the apres Johnny Walker set until 3am." BK Magazine Review


Indian
Kashmir 419 Sukhumvit Rd, between Sukhumvit soi 21 (Asoke) and soi 23. Dininginthailand Review


International
Extra Virgin: Sukhumvit Soi 53. A cuisine with ingredienst from all over the world: Thai-style fish, grilled salmon, seafood tapas, bkaed clams, pasta with spicy sausage in Northern Thai style... Savourthisflavour shows pictures of dishes and comments: "Nice place all in all. The food could be better but is above average." Bangkok post titled: "A place for everyone".


Italian
Basilico 8 Sukhumvit Soi 33. Pizzeria. Wheretoeat-Bangkok Review

Govinda Vegetarian Restaurant 6/5-6/6 Sukhumvit Soi 22. Outside dining in a front courtyard. "Here one can explore how elaborate vegetarian cooking can be and the deliciousness gained from healthy fare", writes Thailand Tatler.

Il Tartufo: 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51. In a white house with a romantic side garden. Special dishes of the day on a blackboard. Barbecue garden on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Good review by BK Magazine.

Limoncello: 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11. The four dozen pizzas and calzones are the stars of this pizzeria according to ThailandTatlers Review.

Vivaldi Amari Atrium Hotel, 1880 New Petchburi Road. Wonderful Italian food and other European dishes created with precise, delicious skill. Thailand Tatlers Review

Opera Riserva Wine Bar 53/3-4 Soi 39, Sukhumvit Road 5. A complement to the L'Opera Restaurant. Seafood like oysters from France, gourmet food like truffle from Italy. Thailand Tatlers Review. Download for Google Map/Google Earth here.


Japanese
Akiyoshi Taisin Square Bldg., 1521/1 Sukhumvit Soi 67-69. BKMagazine writes: "Unlimited thinly-sliced marbled meat that practically melts in your mouth—how does that sound? Good? So good, in fact, that reservations are strongly recommended." People queue for shabu. BKMagazine Review


Amapola 72/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, off Sukhumvit Soi 49. Aziacity.com writes: "Having a meal at Amapola, you feel like you're at a party at the home of a wealthy person who has a taste for life's finer things." A steakhouse run by a japanese family, the offer also duck, chicken, pork and various seafood dishes, as well as traditional French starters like escargot and foie gras. Aziacity Review

Sekitei Charn Issara Tower 2, 2922/35-36 New Petchaburi Road. BKMagazine writes: "The whole point of the place is the good-value buffet. Falling somewhere between street side muu krata and posh hotel buffets, here you can stuff yourself silly full of succulent meat." BK Magazine Review

Shunbo Sumibiyaki 33/5 Sukhumvit Soi 11. Named after its specialty, charcoal-grilled food (Sumibiyaki). BKMagazine writes: "Japanese salarymen in the know head to this discreet eatery for its excellent food that is priced far lower than you might expect. With a combination of premium ingredients, skilled preparation and exquisite presentation, simple Japanese dishes are elevated above the cheap and common." BK Magazine Review

Tsu & Nami JW Marriot Hotel, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2. BKMagazine writes: "some of the best sushi you’ll eat anywhere. Bring your credit card: quality like this doesn't come cheap." BKMagazine Review See Tsu&Nami Homepage


Seafood
Seafood Market and Restaurant 89 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Soi Kasame). A touristy place, but good cooks. It's like a combination of supermarket and restaurant. You first buy the ingredients for your meal, then you go to the table and a waiter will ask you, how you want to have it prepared. Read more in the blog of The Travelling Hungry Boy.


Thai and Vietnamese
11 Gallery: 1/34 Soi Sukhumwit 11 Rd. (opposite Ambassdor Hotel). A Thai house with two floors. See their homepage. See a video.


Thai
Bo.lan: 42 Soi Pichai Ronnarong, Sukhumvit Soi 26. A ritual is researched, practisized and tought at Bo-lan: the ritual of Thai cooking, using fresh and seasonal wild an cultivated produces. Duangporn Bo Songvisava and her husband and partner Dylan Jones cook at Bo.lan (opened in 2009) and take their ingredients nearly daily at the market. The name Bo.lan not only represents both their names, it is also Thai for “antique”. At Bo.lan they revive and reinvent old-style Thai recipes for the modern century. "We use herbs and greens that aren't necessarily mainstream; you won't find them in the big Thai restaurants. Pak liang, purple beans, vegetables from the south and the north; all kinds of not-so-mainstream vegetables. They're part of our heritage", said Bo in an interview with rdasia.com. And she continued: "Thai food is about balance. In one dish, you have all the flavours: spicy, salty, bitter. It's also a balance of texture. Something crunchy, something soft, all in the same plate." So she encourages guests to try lots of Thai dishes together. "With Thai food it's not about single dishes — something hot, something sour. You try to balance the whole meal and eat different things. Sharing is the key to Thai food, you have to eat with a lot of people, and eat a lot of food. And rice. You have to eat rice with Thai food! It doesn't come together properly otherwise. Rice is the part that makes everything tastier." So her restaurant promotes "Bo.lan Balance", a menu composed of five key components: Thai salad (yum), chilli relish (kreung jim), a stir-fried dish (jan phat), curry (keng) and also individually served soups (nahm keng) (see menu). Now Duangporn Songvisava has been selected as Asia’s Best Female Chef 2013 by the award of Veuve Clicquot. Bo also hosts the television show "Eat, Am, Are" on Thai PBS, which encourages people to eat well and safeguard local food wisdom and also organises a monthly artisan and farmer's market in front of her restaurant. Have a look at this video. See a lot of exzellent reviews.

Picture by Bo.lan on Facebook
Chef Duangporn Songvisava

Picture by goodiesfirst


Coffee Beans by Dao 20/12-15 Ruamrudi Village, Soi Ruamrudi. Thailand Thatler writes: "With a mix of more than 250 Thai and western-style dishes to choose from this is a place to come with friends or family." Thailand Tatlers Review

Face Bar / Hazara / Lan Na Thai: 29, Soi 38, Sukhumvit Rd. The Face is built with teak like a traditional Thai compound house. Face Bar is decorated with artifacts from China, including Chinese raised beds. Hazara is and indian restaurant. Lan Na Thai is a Thai restaurant, decorated with Burmese and Northern Thai artefacts. "Though the name refers to the ancient kingdom that now forms northern Thailand, the menu offers primarily traditional Thai favourites but with detectable influences of the north and of Burma", writes ThailandTatler. There is a Thai traditional Spa too, that offers massages in different Thai massage techniques. See a photo album

Jae Kee 137/1-2 Witthayu (Wireless) Road. Food from Isaan. BKMagazine writes: "One of the city’s best somtam parlors offers saap Isaan fare along with finger-licking fried chicken." BKMagazine Review

Vientiane Kitchen 8 Sukhumvit Soi 36. Wheretoeat-Bangkok writes: "Vientiane Kitchen is fun and serves food appealing to the tourists who flock to the restaurant each night, but by no stretch of the imagination is the experience authentic. Making the Isaarn food universally palatable removes much of its spicy character." Wheretoeat Bangkok Review


Vegetarian
Tamarind Cafe 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 20. ThailandTatler Review


Vietnamese
Le Dalat Indochine 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23. It is surrounded by beautiful tropical gardens and has a relaxing atmosphere inside, providing an escape from city’s noise. Thailand Tatlers Review. "Food is extremely good", notes Rya's Kitchen.

Xuan Mai First at 32 Sukhumvit Soi 13, now moved to Thong Lor (between Soi 17 and Soi 19), Sukhumvit Soi 55. BK-Magazine writes: "A ten-table space on Sukhumvit 13 claiming to serve the "best Vietnamese food in Bangkok" may very well be just that." BK Magazine Review On her homepage owner Meyung Robsen reveals, that she used to be FBI-Agent. Home Page. And read an interview with her in Bangkok Post and the latest review in Bangkok Post.



A book: Bangkok's Top 50 Street Food Stalls

Chawadee Nualkhair has released a new book, "Bangkok's Top 50 Street Food Stalls". Thai-born and raised in Pittsburgh (USA) the freelance journalist ate with her friend at around 150 food stalls in Bangkok and finally selected 50 of them. In an interview on travelfish.org she says: "The best places are the oldest. Thai people are extraordinarily nice, but when it comes to their food, they don't hesitate to vote with their feet. The stands that have been around the longest must have something special." Some of the best food she located in Banglamphu, she mentions "particularly the loop from Tanao Road onto Mahachai Road". More abot the book and how to get it: bangkokglutton.com/bkk-top-50



Bangkok's top 20 restaurants: A listing by Sirin P Wongpanit, food critic of The Nation.



Discover more in Bangkok:
Your Guide to Bangkok


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Sunday, May 20, 2012

Good Morning Old Bangkok 5:
Bangrak บางรัก Walking Tour -
A plenty of colourful contrasts

See the locations on Bangrak Google Map



From Charoen Krung Road towards Si Ban U (Bangrak Market)

Picture by Rodney_F
Bangrak seen from Peninsula Hotel with Mandarin Oriental Hotel (left) and Shangri-la Hotel (right) at the banks of Chao Phraya River


Where glistening high rise blocks join rows of old shophouses and crumbling Neoclassical buildings, where a roaring freeway crosses small and quiet sois, where the merchants from the West and East on their sailships and steamships used to enter into old Siam by the Chao Phraya River, where buddhist, konfucian, hindu, muslim and christ beliefers live together peacefully in a multinational community with their temples, shrines, mosques and churches, where swarms of tourists arrive at luxury riverside hotels and restaurants and where the smells of a great variety of local food come from around the corner: Bang Rak บางรัก is one of the liveliest and most picturesque neighborhoods of the City of Angels (see pictures on ilbonito.wordpress.com). And Charoen Krung Road ist the artery of all the colcourful live and a rich heritage. Charoen Krung Road (New Road) was the first paved road of Bangkok, built in 1861 during the reign of King Rama IV at the request of foreign consuls who wanted to ride their horses and carriages for leisure and breathing fresh air, as they said. See the video Charoen Krung Road

You have put on your shoes? Then let's start our walking tour. We start at Sathon Pier or Saphan Taksin Skytrain station and turn into Soi Keson. We pass between Shangri-La Hotel and Jael Aeng Beal (ศาลเจ้าเจียวเองเบี้ยว), a Chinese temple (picture by Gerry Gantt) and arrive at Bangrak Bazaar บางรัก บาซาร์, a small street market and food center behind the Robinson Department store ห้าง โรบินสัน บางรัก (open 10.30 am till 22 pm daily). We continue to Soi Ban U, where old wooden houses duck behind the mighty hotel complex, before we reach Ban Oou Mosque มัสยิดบ้านอู่ (read more on bangkoklibrary.com).

See this lively video of the area.

We walk on to Soi Wat Suan Plu, turn right and soon see the white gate leading to the temple.

Wat Suan Phlu วัดสวนพลู: Wat Suan Phlu is a Thai-Chinese. All of the buildings except the Ubosot are made of wood. The Ubosot is decorated in a quite unique way with blue glass tiles. On the walls you discover a series of painted panels.


See pictures by Duncan lp, Boonaum Hongkham, asiaforvisitors.com and video by foodtravel.tv

The contrast between old and modern Bangkok you see in front of the door of Wat Suan Phlu:



Now its time to move on to Charoen Krung Road. And when we reach it we look up:



The State Tower: With 247 metres one of the tallest buildings in Southeast Asia. It counts 50 condominium units, 500 serviced apartments, 460 office units and 90 retail units. The tower has neo-classical balconies, a 40 storey high atrium inside and a 30m golden dome on top. See vagaboned's roundview-video from up there. It was conceived in the early 1990s by the Thai architect Rangsan Torsuwan and built in 2001. Located on the 63rd floor, on The Dome, you find the open-air restaurant Sirocco. Dress appropriate, if you want to have the chance to take the elevator up there. The State Tower is home of the luxury hotel Lebua.

The Dome on State Tower

Sirocco Restaurant

Chao Phraya River seen from the State Tower

After the drink on top we go back to the grounds of Bangrak and follow Charoen Krung Road until we turn into Soi Burapha. We pass the souvenir shop Thai Home Industries (35 Charoen Krung Soi 40) and come to the gate of the Assumption Church.

Assumption Cathedral (อาสนวิหารอัสสัมชัญ): 23 Soi Oriental (Oriental Pier or BTS Saphan Taksin). This outstanding cathedral with twin towers and a centre rose window - the red brick is a contrast to the surrounding white walls - is the main Roman Catholic church of Bangkok. French missionary Father Pascal started the construction of the first church here in 1809 and completed it in 1821. The architect designed the original Assumption Cathedral with material imported from France and Italy. The church you see now dates from the 1910s. The building then was reconstructed in an Romanesque style. The costs were largely covered by a the Chinese catholic businessman, Low Khiok Chiang, who owned the nearby Kiam Hoa Heng & Company and also donated money for Catholic parihes and missions in Singapore and Guangdong province in China, where he was born. The Rococo style interior was unusual for this part of the world. The cathedral is part of a series of buildings, other parts are the Assumption Convent, the Catholic Mission of Bangkok, Assumption Printing Press and rectory which were inhabited by the missionaries during their time in Bangkok. And next to the church you see the Assumption College, the most renowned catholic university in Thailand.

Picture by zhaffsky

Picture by adaptorplug Rococo-style interieur of the Assumption Cathedral


Back from the church we walk on the Oriental Lane towards Chao Phraya River and see at our right:

East Asiatic Company: The former office of this company with its classical Venetian-style facade, built in 1884, is now well-conserved as a historical building.





We could also have started here, arriving by Chao Phraya Express River at The Oriental Pier, or even by staying at this famous hotel:

The Oriental Hotel: 48 Charoen Krung Soi 38. It was established by two Danes named H. Jarck and C. Salje in 1876 and the earliest modern European style hotel in the Rattanakosin period. Famous writers as Joseph Conrad and Somerset Maugham used to be guests here. The original building is now called The Authors wing.

Authors Wing


After walking back we turn into Soi Charoen Krung 38 and see a white building in front of us:

O.P. Place โอ.พี. เพลซ: 30/1 Soi Charoen Krung 38. White stone in Neoclassical style as far as the eye reaches: The O.P. Plaza (Oriental Plaza) offers you a glimpse of Bangkok in the old days. "Falck & Beidek" was the first name of the store, that was located here and owned by a German company established in 1878. The Oriental Plaza followed in 1908. Today it's said to be a good place for looking for antiques, jewellery, art, tailors and Thai silk. The building counts two storeys and a three-storey tower at each wing. Three gabled porches are very elegant. You walk around in corridors panelled in shining wood, the appearence of wealth (see pictures on skyscrapercity.com). If you come in by the central entrance you will see at the back of the lobby an old style elevator. On the third floor you find The Ashwood Gallery, which deals with a wide range of antiques from Burmese alabaster sculptures to Japanese and Chinese prints. On the second floor, there is a small coffee shop with comfortable armchairs.


After whe have shopped not too much - to avoid heavy bags - our feet bring us to Soi Charoen Krung 36, back to the history of Bangrak. First we pass the French Embassy and the Ambassadors Residence, dating from the mid of 19th century. Then we arrive at the banks of Chao Phraya River:

Customs House: Soi Charoen Krung 36. The house right at the banks of Chao Phraya River, called Sunlaka Sathan, and once the gateway to Thailand, is rundown today, but some oldtime elegance remains. In 1888 - after Thailands economy had changed from monopolized to free trade - King Rama V commanded to build it. The italian architect Joachim Grassi designed it in Neoclassical style (read a study about the custom house). When the ships carrying merchandise from foreign countries entered the city they had to pass through this customs area. The tax was called Rong Phasi Roi Chak Sam, that's why peole called the house Rong Phasi. In 1949 the custom office was moved to a new port at Khlong Toey. So the house was transformed into Bangrak fire brigade station and from then on neglected. Sometimes it was used for movies, for example in 1984 for "Killing Fields" and also for Wong Kar Wai's "In the Mood for Love". See pictures on imeriah.blogspot.com, kai1981. Today customs house is in the hands of Natural Park Public Company Limited and Silverlink Holdings Ltd. They plan to turn it into The Aman Resort Bangkok Hotel, a fixe star house with 35 luxurious rooms. But a dispute about the removing of the fire station (read more) makes it unclear, if the plans will be realized.

Picture by Philip Roeland




This soi has a dead end, so we walk back to the French Embassy and notice the entrance to a soi leading to Haroon Mosque. You enter an area of small sois with traditional wooden houses.



Haroon Mosque มัสยิดฮารูณ: 25 Chareon Krung 36 Road. In 1837 Musa Bafadel, an Indonesian-Arab trader from Borneo, who was sailing between Siam, Malaya and Indonesia, arrived here and decided to reside in this place with his three sons. One of them, Haroon, continued his fathers businesses between Siam and Malaya. When Haroon passed away his son Muhammad Yusuf Bafadel took care of his legacy. He constructed the mosque. When the Royal Thai Government needed the land for the construction of Customs House, it offered Yusuf Bafadel pieces of land in the inner side in exchange of the land of Ton Samrong, where the mosque first was situated at the banks of Chao Phraya River. The wooden mosque was moved. In 1934 Muhammad Yusuf decided to replace the wooden mosque with a brick and lime. He sacrificed his properties by selling land and Indian traders also donated for the building. The new mosque was "the talk of the town in size, wooden decorative art and craftsmanship", writes haroonmosque.blogspot.com. A muslim community has developped around the mosque and returns to prayer here every Friday. And the foodstalls then are worth a visit, the food like chicken mataba or beef biryani "is delicious, as it is all cooked by housewives, grandmothers and other senior female members of the community", notes Bangkok Post. Be there early and before 11am, because the delicacies have gone until then!

Or you would prefere to go to a restaurant with best references? We make just some steps on So Rong Phasi and then turn right:

Tongue Thai Restaurant: 18-20 Soi Charoen Krung 38. Curries and spicy salads are awaiting you in a 100-year-old converted shophouse. The reviews on tripadvisor.com are a bit mixed, some very good, some disappointed. See pictures by wcher. Open 11am-10.30pm daily.


Nearby you will discover:
Wat Muang Khae วัด ม่วงแค: Soi Charoen Krung 34

Guardian at the entrance to Wat Muang Khae


From the pier of Wat Muang Kae you can take the Chao Phraya Express bot back to the Oriental Hotel or forward to the River City Pier. But may we you would like to walk on? After seeing all these old buildings from outside its time to have a look at the inside. How did the people in Bangkok live in their houses? We stroll back to Charoen Krung Road, move a bit north. We pass the General Post Office, that was built in art-deco-style and once used as the British Embassy. And then we turn into Soi Charoen Krung 43, a quiet road with many historic houses, that crosses the expressway below. Then we arrive:


Bangkokian Museum พิพิธภัณท์ชาวบางกอก: 273 Soi Charoen Krung าซอยเจริญกรุง 43. +66 2 233-7027. You already have got an idea how Jim Thompson lived in Bangkok? Now get an idea of the lifestyle of middle-class Bangkokians in the period of World War II. The museum is hiding behind the trees of a pleasant garden, a quiet oasis away from the noise of Charoen Krung Road. The wooden home of the Suravadee family has been built in 1937. A living room, a dining room and bed rooms with furniture of this time have been preserved. You discover antiques like the old Benjarong jar, made from Thai porcelain in five basic colors, household items, a kitchen, sanitation and toilet facilities.
The house has been turned into a museum by inheritor Ajarn Waraporn Surawadee, a teacher, two years after her mother died. She could have made a fortune by selling her inherited property. Instead in 2003 she kept one house and gave the other part of the compound to the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration to become a folk museum (read The Nation). And for many years she has been guiding guests of the musem herself, when she is at home.
Her stepfather Francis Christian, an indian doctor, who graduated in England, built the house, that is now situated at the back. It was intended to serve as a clinic on the ground floor and living quarters at the upper floor and first constructed in the Thung Mohammek District. But the doctor died, before he could move in. So the house was rented and later transferred to the ground of the museum. It shows a combination of Eastern and Western lifestyle. The third building is a two-storey eight unit row of houses, which were for rent. A part of museum presents the history of Bang Rak and Silom with farms, canals and windmills, which formed the picture of this area. Read more on [chil-suht] and on Having "Me" Time. See photos by ซาสี่สีส้ม, natski13 and thebezz.

Open: Wednesday to Sunday, 10 am till 17 pm.

Picture by gunofthepatriots




Oh, this was a long way. But of course there are more attractions in Bangrak. For example:

Sri Mahamariamman Hindu Temple (วัดพระศรีมหาอุมาเทวี): 2 Pan Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi). +66 2 238-4007. 06:00-20:00 daily. One of only two Hindu temples in Bangkok, the Sri Mariamman Temple is actually a great experience. It was created in the 1860s by Tamil immigrants, and as with any temple found in India, it is unique, very colourful and ornately detailed. It generally is a busy temple with a constant stream of worshippers lighting incense sticks and plenty of ceremonies going on. Besides Indians, there are also Thai visitors as Buddha images stand side by side Hindu deities inside the temple. As it is the most sacred place for the Indian community in Bangkok, it is not allowed to take pictures inside the temple compound.



Picture by Axel Drainville



Cultural diversity is what makes Bangrak as interesting as it is. If you like to experience more of it, you should eat where the locales eat. shesimmers.com tells you, where the traditional food stalls are: from Thai desserts to goat bryani at the Muslim Restaurant, grilled Bananas to the roasted duck restaurants Prachak (ประจักษ์เป็ดย่าง) and Nai Sung (เป็ดย่างนายสูง) or Chinese rice dumplings. shesimmers.com is written by Leela Punyaratabandhu, who lives in Chicago, but visits here hometown Bangkok often. Also Motormouse from Ipoh writes about the food stalls in Bangrak. Mor tipps you get on bk.asia-city.com by Pieng-or Mongkolkumnuankhet

If you don't want to discover the food diversity by yourself, you can book the halfday Historic Bangrak Food Tour.


Charoen Krung Road with Robinson Plaza behind



From Charoen Krung Road towards Soi Wat Suan Phlu


Discover more:

Enjoy the food culture in Bangrak:
Mouthwatering food in Bangkok: Look for the section about Bangrak

In the South of Bangrak Walking tour:

In the North of Bangrak Walking tour:


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