Picture by marhas
U-shaped complex with courtyard
At Lhong 1919 you discover one of the very few remaining examples of classic Southern Chinese architecture in Bangkok. On the banks of the Chao Phraya River in Klong San district, at the end of Chiang Mai road, this U-shaped complex of buildings dates back to the era of King Rama III (1788–1851). It was constructed in the post-Ming dynasty Chinese architecture style called San He Yuan, meaning 3 buildings surrounding a courtyard, and designed with axiality, balance, symmetry and other values of Feng Shui in mind. The buildings were erected from teak with brick and plaster, wooden floor boards and ceramic roofs.
Today the old warehouses and office buildings are no longer looking dilapidated, but shining in new splendor and they are bustling with visitors of cute clothing boutiques, ice cream vendors, Thai fusion coffee shops, restaurants and coworking spaces. And many are posing for selfies. The owners, the Wanglee family, have decided for a careful renovation. The aim was to preserve as much of the original and natural beauty of the historical site as possible, using similar methods and materials as the originals. Doors and window frames were restored as well as the mural arts. The grand opening happened in November 2017.
Picture by marhas
Carefully renovated
Restored art
Why did the site not end up as another condo at the banks of the river like many other historical sites? Over 130 years ago Tan Siew-Wang sailed from Southern China to Bangkok, where he founded the Wanglee clan, one of Thailand’s most prominent Thai-Chinese family dynasties, today in its 5th generation. He founded his residence and a rice mill next to a Chao Phraya River steamship pier, built in 1850 to receive vessels from China, Hong Kong and Singapore. At this Thonburi side pier thousands of Chinese immigrants disembarked to start their new lifes in Thailand. Warehouses to accommodate the ship freight and offices were built here in 1850 by Phraya Phisansuppaphol. In 1919 the Wanglee family purchesed the area. The warehouses were turned into storage sites for the Wanglee's farm produce shipped along the Chao Phraya River. When the Wanglee family decided to renovate and open the complex to the public, Rujiraporn Wanglee, founder of award-winning interior design firm PIA, was put in charge of the renovation. And from the year 1919 and from the Thai word Huo Chuan Lhong (steam boat pier) the new name of the facilities was formed: Lhong 1919.
Pictures by marhas
Today the centre point is the nearly 170 years old shrine of Mazu, the Chinese goddess of seafarers. The air is heavy with the scent of incense and smoke and many people are kneeling for prayer. You find 3 wooden figures of Mazu at different stages of her manifestation: a young girl, who could predict the weather to ensure safe sea travel and heal the sick; Mazu the goddess, giving blessings for good fortune, and Empress in Heaven.
Mazu shrine
Picture by marhas
Mazu shrine upstairs
The shrine is surrounded by stores. For home furnishings, candles and other items, check out Thai brand Karmakamet. Other shops sell plants, homeware and fashion, and there’s a souvenir shop at the roadside entrance. Andy you get smoothies and snacks at several stalls along the main thoroughfare leading up to the shrine.
Not open for the public is the adjacent Wanglee House, which was honoured with an architectural conservation award from the Association of Siamese Architects. But there is a way to get a glimpse of it: "Climb to the top of the eight-story pagoda at adjacent Chee Chin Khor Chinese temple", writes Joe Cummings. Read more about Wanglee Mansion. Read more about Wanglee family.
Wanglee House
Che Chin Khor Pagoda จีจินเกาะ คลองสาน
Dining outlets at Lhong 1919 include Rong Si Rim Nam โรงสีริมน้ำ, specializing in Thai seafood, Nay Harng (traditional Thai coffee and simple Thai dishes like som tam and satay) and Plearn Wanpanich (Chinese-Thai snacks such as half-boiled egg, steamed bread with sangkhaya, and roast duck buns).
River dining at Rong Si Rim Nam โรงสีริมน้ำ
Lhong 1919 opens daily from 8am to 8pm. See a lot of pictures.
From November 29th to December 15th 2019 See Pan Din สี่แผ่นดิน The Legend Musical will take place at Lhong 1919. To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the historical Chinese-Thai pier on the bank of Chao Phraya River, Pia-Rujiraporn Wanglee, executive of Lhong 1919, is organizing this outdoor musical with light and sound effects on Chao Phraya River bank. It tells the story of Mae Ploy and her multi-generational family, during the reign of King Rama V, based on the novel by M.R. Kukrit Pramoj. Actress Nok-Sinjai Plengpanich is playing Mae Ploy. Tickets are available at Thai Ticket Major Tel. 02-262-3456, Lhong 1919 Tel. 091-387-1919, and the Sales Department of Muang Thai Rachadalai Theater (Monday – Friday) Tel. 02-642-2400-5. Tickets are prized at 7,000 baht, 4,000 baht, 3,000 baht, 2,500 baht, 2,000 baht and 1,500 baht.
