What's left of Portuguese influence in Thailand? You get the answer in the small sois of Baan Kudeejen (also: Kudichin กุฎีจีน) on the Thonburi side of Chao Phraya river in Bangkok, where Christians, Buddhists and Muslims have been co-existing together harmoniously for more than 200 years.
It was King Taksin, who allocated pieces of land to different communities in 1767, among them the Portuguese. This happened afther the destruction of Ayutthaya, the former capital of Siam, by Burmese troops, and after Portuguese weapons had helped Thaksin to throw back the Burmese. The King had choosed Thonburi as location for the new capital. From then on many Portuguese have integrated themselves into Siam's society.
The name Kudeejeen refers either to a Thai word for “Chinese monk’s residence” or to the word for "Chinese laborers". Chinese Hokkien immigrants have settled in the same area. Thats why you find today the catholic church of Santa Cruz and the Chinese Kuan An Keng Shrine in the same community, connected by a walkway along Chao Phraya river.
The Santa Cruz Church was built in 1770 and - after a fire - rebuilt in 1916 in the Renaisannce-neoclassical style, which you see today.
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The walkway along Chao Phraya river:
Picture by marhas
Along this way you see Windsor house, built in American gingerbread style in the 19th century with teak wood by Louis Windsor, a wealthy British merchant who owned a shop on Charoen Krung Road. Read and see more pictures: Bangkok Post
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In gingerbread style: Windsor House
Kuan An Keng Shrine (ศาลเจ้าเกียนอันเกง) offers beautiful wooden carvings and mural paintings and is one of the oldest shrines in Thonburi. First there were two shrines. During the reign of King Rama III (1788-1851) both were demolished due to bad condition and the Hokkienese people built the shrine we see today with Chinese courtyard architecture. In 2008 the Association of Siamese Architects honoured the preservation work with an award. The shrine was founded by Hokkien people and is home to an old statue of Guan Yin (in sitting position) carved out of fragrant wood and brought from China as well as to gold Buddha images in floral robes, created during the time of King Taksin,
Now let's turn into the small sois of Kudeejeen.
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Graffiti in a soi of Kudeejeen
Soon you will stumble upon Khanom Farang ("foreigner cakes"), cakes made with flour, eggs and sugar, for example at Thanusingha Bakery. If you are there at the right time you may watch owner Teepakorn Sudjidjune and his family preparing the cakes. "It’s a delight to watch the thick, white cake batter being stirred and then poured slowly into the antique baking tray", writes bangkok101.com. Khanom farang are topped with dried fruits: raisins, persimmon, winter melon and of course sugar. You may also learn here, that the Portuguese introduced bread to thailand, the thai word pang comes from the Portuguese word pão. There are three other bakeries: Grandma Pao Niece’s Shop, Auntie Amphan’s Shop and Auntie Lek’s Shop.
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Auntie Amphan's bakery shop
Kanom Farang:
From Tanusingha bakery
And there is more influence of the Portuguese cuisine: Only accessible by reservation Baan Sakul Thong, a small old wooden restaurant, offers Thai-Portuguese food and desserts cooked with family recipes. Jeep Tua Nok, bird-shaped Thai dumplings, are famous appetizers. What follows is the signature main dish: Portuguese-style rice noodle topped with minced chicken and red curry with coconut cream. The cooking is influenced by Royal Thai cuisine: the ancestors of the owner used to work in the kitchen of the Royal Palace.
Bird shaped dumplings at Baan Sakulthong
You like to know more about the relationship between the Kingdom of Siam and Portugal? Then stop at Baan Kudichin Museum: In a renovated wooden house you find a café at the ground floor and the museum on the upper floor. Photos and artifacts show the historic life of Kudeejeen. At the café you get sappayak, a bun filled with cooked pork, chili and potatoes sprinkled with tamarind.
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From an outlook at the museum you see Baan Chantanaphab, a 125-year-old teak house, where you can see Thai architecture, for example a front frame constructed in rising sun style and windows with carved Puttan flowers. On its walls, you may discover the holes made by bullets fired during the Manhattan rebellion by officers of the Royal Thai Navy in 1951, owner Charupa told The Nation.
Baan Chantanaphab
Finally your path leads to Wat Kalayanamitr Varamahavihara: Built during the reign of King Rama III, this temple with a mix of classic Chinese-Thai architecture hosts the statue of Phra Buddha Trai Rattanayok (พระพุทธไตรรัตนนายก), also called Luang Phor Toh, also known as Sam Por Hug Kong or Sam Por Kong, where Thais and ethic Chinese pray for safe travels, success in business and good relationships. The temple is home to Thailand’s biggest bell. in 1837 the main hall was constructed to enshrine the statue of Phra Buddha Trai Rattanayok, which was inspired by the Sam Por Kong Buddha statue at Wat Phanan Choeng in Ayutthaya.
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Phra Buddha Trai Rattanayok
Wat Kalayanamitr you cross New Arun Amarin road to arrive at Bang Luang Mosque (มัสยิดบางหลวง), situated within Kudi Khao Community (กุฎีขาว) at Khlong Bangkok Yai and decorated with details that reflect Thai, Chinese and European cultures. This mosque was built in the early Rattanakosin period during the reign of King Rama I by a Muslim merchant named To Yi (โต๊ะหยี). The mosque is decorated with Thai brick and painted in white color. The number of pillars, totally 30, represent the 30 chapters in the Islamic holy book Koran. Read more: Cultural Heritage.
How to arrive at Kudeejeen community: Hop on Chao Phraya Express boat from the pier nearest to you and get off at Wat Kanlaya.
Read also:
Guide to Bangkoks "Little Portugal"
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