Outlook from Artist's House Baan Silapin Picture by marhas
Escape the fast-paced metropolis Bangkok and find the quiet life along its khlongs? Khlong Bang Luang คลองบางหลวง could be your destination. "A lovely patch of peace beyond the bustle", writes Khetsirin Pholdhampalit in The Nation on Sunday. The famous Thai writer Kukrit Pramoj chose it as the setting for Mae Ploy's birth in his novel "Four Reigns". Between Phetkasem Soi 20 and Soi 28 the wooden shophouses and Ayutthaya-era temples give you a feeling of how Thonburi looked in the 17th century, when it was Siam's capital and the King lived at Wang Derm Palace. Then this was the residential area for influential families and high-ranking government officials. From there comes the name Bang Luang: Bang means "area", Luang refers to the monarchy. Today the official name of the canal is Khlong Bangkok Yai. See impressions on youtube
One outstanding wooden house on Khlong Bang Luang is Baan Silapin, the artist's house ริมคลองบางหลวง. Admiral Yodchai Raksamruad took possession of it a few years ago after it had belonged to his family of goldsmiths for generations. It was in bad condition. He invited artist Chumpol Akkapantanon to help. He had seen, what Chumpol did for the Phranakorn Nornlen Boutique Hotel. Chumpol and three friends decided to buy, renovate it and turn it into an art gallery. The two-storey L-shaped house is built around an Yor Mum Sipsong-style pagoda in its garden, it has a gently sloping roof and gables, which are decorated with wooden carvings.
Pagoda in the garden Picture by marhas
Now there is a Coffee shop on the first floor and a studio where visitors can learn to draw and make woodcuts and jewellery. Upstairs you find the gallery. Baan Silapin was opened to the public in September 2009. Baan Silapin opens daily from 9 am until 6 pm and admission is free. See wonderful gallery about Artist's House and Khlong Bang Luang on Facebook and also on bloggang.com
Picture moonbamboo
Picture moonbamboo
Picture moonbambooArtist Chumpol Akkapantanon at work
The new owners encouraged their neighbours to create terraces in front of their houses, where vistitors now can walk along the canal. Artist Supasit Wongrom-ngern, who helped Chumpol, has moved to the community. He has rented a shophouse, where he gives lessons in painting and making woodcuts. See more pictures of Baan Silapin on Instagram.
Picture by marhas
Picture by marhas
Houses along Khlong Bang Luang opposite to Baan Silapin
More is to see nearby: Several local shops offer hairdressing services, portrait painting or fresh fruits and vegetables. And of course there are restaurants and coffee shops. For example the Dry traditional Coffee shop ซ้อแห้งกาแฟโบราณ:
Cups and pots:
Café Bossa:
Across the bridge you will find Auntie Lek's noodle shop with a charcoal stove or a grocery shop or Lung Sia, a shop selling traditional coffee.
Noodles by Auntie Lek, see more pictures on Instagram
Read more on The Nation . Bang Luang Gallery offers beauty products under OTOP (see picture by kajarp)
There is also the Museum of Khlong Bang Luang.
Picture by marhas
Nearby stucco and murals at Wat Kampaeng Bangchak วัดกำแพ may draw your interest. The murals show the Jataka Tales, the previous lifes of Buddha. They have been painted by Master Krueinkong, as we learn in the museum:
Picture by marhas
Picture by marhas
During the coronavirus pandemic in spring 2020 also Khlong Bang Luang got very quiet and Baan Silapin was closed. In this time Chumpol Akkapantanon developped the idea to renovate the house with the help of artwork. Now 30 pictures are waiting for buyers, who pay 30000 Bath, as you can read here. See the oil paintings on Facebook. And see this video by Thai PBS.
Picture by marhas
Wat Kamphaeng Bangchak Pier
Not all the residents like the stream of tourists coming to Baan Silapin now, as Bangkok Post reported. So be respectful!
Read more:
Discover the charm of Khlong Bang Luang community
See more impressions of Khlong Bang Luang:
klongbangluang.com
peeka001 on the way to Artit's House
mahosot.com
Thaipuppeteer
annop1
thaiweekender.com
pateawthai.com
panoramio.com
How you arrive: By MRT Blue Line: Get out at Bang Phai station, follow Phetkasem street, then follow Wat Thong Sala Ngarm Alley. By Car: Drive to soi 20 or 28 on Petchakasem Road, then park your car at Wat Kampang or Wat Khuhasawan and walk. Or you rent a longtailboat and have your guide stop at Baan Silapin. Finally there is a public passenger boat running from Bang Wa Pier to Wat Kamphaeng Bangchak Pier. Read more: Discover Thonburi with new Public Boat Routes and by Walking
Discover more in Bangkok:
Your Guide to Bangkok
2 comments:
Great article, I never heard of a Baan Silapin or Khlong Bang, I think it looks a lot like ampawa but a not as busy. Thanks
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